By now, we deal with sardines every day, and with great pleasure. Perhaps you do too? As an uncomplicated and versatile everyday delicacy, we highly value these little silver wonders. Although they naturally also shine as purists, so much can be done with them! We have already tried some recipes and presented them here. But what about the sardine's little sister, the anchovy? Does our imagination go beyond a self-topped anchovy pizza? Mais bien sûr! So let's go – and that is, freely according to the motto "Butter bei die Fische"! To keep it simple, I have selected a recipe that is done in no time and for which you don't even need many ingredients: homemade anchovy butter. Out of sardinophilic interest and driven by culinary curiosity, I decided to make an anchovy butter to go with it. Let's see which tastes better! Or should sardines and anchovies perhaps be compared as little as apples and pears after all?! …
Numéro 1: the anchovy butter Ingredients:
1 small can of anchovies (approx. 50g)
150g soft salted raw milk butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
parsley, chopped
1 pinch of Piment d'Espelette
Put all ingredients in the blender at once or blend with the immersion blender until everything is well mixed. Put the finished butter in a bowl and place it in the refrigerator to cool or put the butter in a piece of wax paper and shape it into a roll of approx. 5 centimeters, which now goes into the refrigerator or even the freezer. Numéro 2: the sardine butter Ingredients:
1 can of boneless sardines in olive oil with lemon, e.g. from La Belle-Iloise
100g salted raw milk butter
2 pinches of seaweed
Let the butter soften at room temperature. Meanwhile, drain the sardines and crush them with a fork, then knead the crushed sardines, the seaweed and the soft butter together with the fork until all ingredients are well combined.Put the finished butter in a small bowl and refrigerate.
The verdict:
Both butter variants taste excellent and very different, and the salted raw milk butter brings out the characteristic taste of both very distinctive fish perfectly:
The anchovy butter has a very smooth-creamy consistency due to blending and can be spread easily. Its taste is intense: richly salty, pleasantly fishy and slightly spicy due to the Piment d'Espelette. The parsley and shallot balance out the aromatic anchovy nicely and give the recipe a fruity note.
Crushing with the fork gives the sardine butter an equally very pleasant fine fibrous structure, reminiscent of rillettes. The candied lemon gives the recipe a pleasant and highly interesting freshness. The recipe clearly impresses with its simplicity and the concentration on the fish. Additional ingredients like parsley or onions would have only watered down the taste.
We recommend enjoying the sardine and anchovy butter with crackers or on toasted bread, or also with warm potatoes and a green salad. In any case, it should be a simple meal where the fish butter can play the main role.
This goes well with a full-bodied but not too heavy red wine, such as the Brouilly 2015 Georges Descombes. The bouquet is delicate and pure with aromas of plums and raspberries, complemented by flinty notes. The special freshness and fruit enchant you instantly! In the mouth, juicy aromas of ripe fruit unfold.
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The recipe for the anchovy butter is by Barbara-jo McIntosh, that of the sardine butter by Sonia Ezgulan. I have slightly modified both according to my own judgment and taste. Above all, the butter-fish ratio can be varied and you also don't have to take sardines with lemon. Try out what tastes good to you and share your best variations with us. Write us an email!