There are close ties between France and Portugal, and many similarities: wine and winemaking play an important role in both countries, not only in the self-image of their inhabitants, but also in their economies and tourism.
Paris is also home to the largest community of Portuguese exiles in Europe. Naturally, the number of Portuguese exiles in Brazil is higher, both in absolute terms and proportionally.
So it is no wonder that we French in Berlin are so fond of Portugal and its products (fish, wine, olive oil, etc.). For anyone who has always wondered about this affinity, here is the explanation :)
Two winemakers whom we know personally and appreciate both for their exceptional wines and as good friends are Antonio Madeira and Tiago Teles. Both are in their early to mid-thirties and belong to the group of "French Portuguese," as they were partly born in France, speak fluent French, and live and work partly in France and partly in Portugal. Accordingly, they are shaped by both cultures and embody them both. Their wines are a beautiful expression of this union of two worlds.
Antonio Madeira lives mostly in Paris, but represents the Dão wine region, which is still far less well known here than other legendary regions, such as the Alentejo or the Douro region. For a long time, no one really looked after the region's heritage: many of the old grape varieties were neglected and disappeared, as did the vineyard owners, who died or moved away and abandoned their vineyards. Then came Antonio, who wanted to stop this gradual decline and produce wines again like the ones he remembered from the old days. As a result, the vines in his vineyards at the foot of the Serra da Estrela are on average 50 years old. Some are much older. This is the best possible starting point for wines with excellent aging potential, characterized by exceptional freshness, spiciness, and minerality—a reflection of their terroir. Antonio has become a true celebrity and a benchmark for this type of wine. What initially seemed cumbersome and difficult is now highly sought after and has found enthusiastic followers beyond the borders of Portugal and France. We are among them, along with many of our customers.
We met the visionary and progressive winemaker very early on, more than two years ago. In 2015, he also participated in our signature event, the "Festa Portuguesa". His red wine "Vinhas Velhas 2013" has been part of our core range ever since.
It is made from 75-year-old vines growing at around 500m above sea level in very granitic soil. It is a cuvée of 75% Baga, Jaen, and Tinta Amarela. The remaining 25% consists of wines from more than 20 almost forgotten grape varieties. Just a few of them: Marufo, Tinta Pinheira, Negro Mouro, Tinta Carvalha, Bastardo, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet. The grapes are harvested entirely by hand, and the yield is only 20 hectoliters per hectare, which is very low.
The wine shows the character and elegance of its origin and is reminiscent of Burgundy, which easily costs twice as much. It has a beautiful pale color and a complex, spicy, resinous, and at the same time fruity nose, reminiscent of pine and slightly caramelized compote of red fruits such as berries and cherries.
On the palate, it has a lot of power and a beautiful balance, with clear aromas and present but not aggressive tannins. The finish is long and mineral.
Ideally, the Vinhas Velhas should be given a little time to breathe. Then it is a wonderful accompaniment to food, but it is also a great pleasure to drink on its own.
Antonio's "colleague" Tiago Teles wrote about wine for a long time until he fulfilled his dream of making his own wine. He grew up in the Aveiro area, but was born in Paris to Portuguese parents. When Tiago was three years old, his parents returned to their homeland. However, he was drawn back to France, specifically to Toulouse, where he went to study telecommunications. His "understanding of wine" is very French, and Tiago has many winemaker friends in France, especially in Beaujolais, Burgundy, and Touraine. His style is similarly elegant, fruity, and light. In French, his wines would be described as "vins de soif," or "thirst-quenching wines".
His wine "Maria da Graça 2015" was not made from the signature grape of the Bairrada region, the famous Baga grape, but from Alfrocheiro, another indigenous grape variety that thrives in limestone and clay soils. It is spontaneously fermented, vinified in stainless steel tanks, and unfiltered. It is lively and fresh, a fluid expression of the region from which it comes. Soft and juicy, velvety and fruity with a pleasantly mineral note, but also spicy. The predominant aromas are pepper and cherry. The tannins are gentle and give the wine volume without weighing down the palate. The overall impression is light yet full. Although you can easily drink the bottle in one evening, if not: it is still wonderful the next day. Lightly chilled even in summer, it is a great wine that needs no food accompaniment, but is also a lot of fun on its own.
