This summer, I was spontaneously able to take 10 days off. Since I have been working with La Belle Iloise for a long time and had not yet visited Brittany, I packed my bags and put my wife in the car. Our base was on the Crozon Peninsula in Finistère. From there, we visited various sardine factories in a star-shaped route. We got up at 6 a.m. on the very first day and were already heading east by 7 a.m. Breton morning mist surrounded us. At 10 a.m., we were in Quiberon at La Belle-Iloise.
La Belle-Iloise is one of France's last sardine factories. Although it is very large and constantly expanding, the working methods are still the same as they were 100 years ago. Of course, machines have taken over a lot of the work, but the most important task—sorting and parrying the fresh sardines—is still done by hand. We bought many new products to taste, which we may soon add to our range.
With great difficulty, we managed to visit another of our suppliers, La Quiberonnaise. The La Quiberonnaise factory is located directly at the port opposite the fishing boat landing stage. La Quiberonnaise buys unsorted sardines, which means they also offer smaller sardines. They offer anchovy fillets preserved in olive oil (like the sardines), which we already have on our menu. They also work with the "butter pope" Jean-Yves Bordier and produce sardines with Bordier butter with him: sardines with natural butter, with butter with algae from Roscoff, and with butter with yuzu. We already have these in our range. Here too, we bought many samples. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, we were not able to tour the factory.
We visited La Compagnie Bretonne des Poissons there, had a tasting, and bought more samples. The Compagnie is another family business with a long history, but much smaller and with less variety than the other two sardine factories.
The next day, we drove north in Finistère to Roscoff. Just before reaching our destination, we passed by an impressive number of artichoke fields. The harvest was in full swing. We were in Brittany's famous "golden vegetable belt". Information can be found here: Artichauts du Léon.
We had an appointment at Algoplus, an artisanal cannery that started with algae processing. The headquarters is in Roscoff because that is where the world's largest concentration of edible algae can be found. As always, we bought many samples and were already delighted by the various rillettes. We are meeting again in September at a gourmet food fair in Paris and will decide after that.
In the afternoon, we drove to Carantec to visit Alain Madec's oyster beds "Prat-Ar-Coum". Unfortunately, no one was there. We will come again.
After that, we had the whole week off and were able to look at the places that interested us. The weather was very good, no rain, only sunshine at temperatures around 30 degrees. Our favorite restaurant was at the Hôtel Thalassa in Camaret-sur-Mer. Everything is fresh and comes almost directly from the sea to the table; the cooking is good and respects the products. You also have to eat galettes and crêpes in Brittany. They tasted best to us at the Crêperie "Le Korrigan".
Time flew by and we set off on our return journey. We had the last appointment of our trip in Orléans at the Vinaigrerie Martin Pouret.
The Martin Pouret house has existed since 1797 and is today the last and only authentic manufacturer of vinegar and mustard according to the traditional Orléans method. Martin Pouret preserves the centuries-old recipes and local craftsmanship according to the rules of the royal edict of 1580. The natural vinegar from Orléans is made exclusively from wines of the best French grape varieties and is aged in oak barrels according to the traditional Orléans method. Only from good wine do you get good vinegar!Orléans vinegar is a combination of three factors: temperature, air, and time.
The Orleans method is a natural conversion from wine to vinegar. Surface fermentation takes place without stirring the wine, without the addition of yeast or oxidation accelerators. Oak barrels (240 l) are filled halfway with vinegar and vinegar mother. This maximizes the surface area. 50 l of wine are added. At an ambient temperature of 28 degrees Celsius, the wine turns into vinegar within approx. 3 weeks. After that, Martin Pouret vinegar matures for at least 12 months in oak barrels at a temperature of 15 degrees Celsius. The result is incomparable to industrial vinegar, which is manufactured within 24 hours.
In the rooms where the barrels are stored for fermentation, it took our breath away and our eyes burned. But it still smelled good. Packed with more samples, we were able to start our journey home. Outside temperature 37 degrees!
On our trip, we were not only delighted by the beautiful, varied landscape, but also by the friendliness of all the people we came into contact with. We will definitely go again.